How to stop being nervous when showing your horse

I travelled to this lovely lady the other day to give her a riding lesson. She was so nice. She had been working with her horse at home for quite a few years, she was a lovely rider, had a handy horse and do you know she had never competed at a show? As we were going through the lesson, I asked her why she had not shown as yet, her answer was sad to me, “fear” was her answer. Not fear of getting bucked off or fear of having a crash on the way but fear of looking silly if she mucked up! That was indeed sad to hear especially when her dream was to show one day. The only thing stopping her was fear of mucking up.

It’s not a “given” that if you own a horse you must show it, however, when you want to get out and show but you can’t due to fear of mucking up or letting nerves get the better of you that’s kind of sad. After all, it’s meant to be fun, it’s a hobby and don’t people take up hobbies because they’re fun to do?

Try this checklist

Continue reading How to stop being nervous when showing your horse

Obsessive-compulsive habit in horses

This is an obsessive-compulsive habit in horses that is likely caused by boredom, stress, or possibly stomach acidity that can lead to equine ulcers. It is a behavioral disorder, and like any other harmful addiction, a cribber needs help controlling itself.

Continue reading Obsessive-compulsive habit in horses

Teaching Your Horse Calisthenics.

Callisthenics – gymnastic exercises to achieve bodily fitness and grace of movement.

For the ultimate supple, responsive horse, I like to teach a horse callisthenics.

Callisthenics because I am putting the horse through a series of exercises that he flows from one to the other effortlessly without hesitation in his movement.

In this lesson the draw reins are called for to ensure that your hand to mouth contact is smoothed out. This way, you can concentrate on your horses body knowing that he has less pressure on his mouth.

You will see in this picture below how supple the horse is in the draw reins. Once your horse gets to know the draw reins are not a tool to hurt and punish him he will relax down and become more plyable.

Soft and plyable

Having said that, I feel the need to once again say “do not use every day or even too regularly“, draw reins are magic when they spend more time in the tool box than on the horse.

Breaking it all down

Teaching your horse calisthenics for control and the ability to blend these four major exercies into one is essential for the rider to break down individually so that your horse can fully understand what you’re asking of him.

Imagine for example learning the steps of a dance in this case, the instructor would naturally teach you one move perhaps for that days lesson, then when they see that you have it down pat then they know it’s time to move on to the next stage of the dance routine. They would never expect you to be able to go through the whole dance routine without practising all of the necessary moves individually.

The 4 Major Exercises for Calisthenics.

The four exercises that I teach here are:-

  • Moving the shoulder in a Counter Arch
  • Moving the hip
  • Sidepass – Sidepassing into the jog cleans it up, takes the sloppy, dribbling, quicker walk into the jog out of the picture… remember, this can be called out as a “break of gait”.
  • Backup

Now some of you probably already know how to do these exercises individually, it’s a whole nuther story when you want to blend them into one, smooth, rhythmic manoeuvre .

It is exactly the same – and (if not more important) to teach your horse in the very same way as you would if you were being taught how to do a certain dance routine for example.

Here’s what you need to know

  • The Counter Arc
  • What is going on with the forehand when moving the shoulder
  • Side-pass with the horse in a slight bend (not straight this time)
  • Moving the hip while still in the same counter arc
  • Backing your horse in a “definite” manner no feet dragging or hesitating midway through the manoeuvre.

This last one is one to really stick by because it will keep you out of trouble for two reasons:-

  • If you don’t know when to jog out from calisthenics,
  • not knowing when to reward

Know when to “give” back to your horse and when to stay in the game.

Why Calisthenics? Because you want an honest dance partner.

  • It’s is the best way to get your horse fit and show ready.
  • Calisthenics is a great way to keep your horse honest.

What do I mean by keeping your horse honest?

It is a horse that knows these exercises when blended are what I call “kept in the dark”. The total opposite is – Horses when taught a single manoeuvre and done often enough will start doing the exercise his way on his own. You really need to strive for your horse to keep anticipating what’s coming up next. You’re in charge of the dance here.

I see lots of riders when warming up their horses before a class, lesson, clinic etc., they will always repeat their warm-up regimen to the letter everytime they start their lesson. After a period of time your horse will take over the controls and go ‘auto-pilot’ on you.

You don’t want a horse to find out about this ‘auto-pilot’, trust me it’s very hard for them to un-learn it. Like riding a bike, they never forget and will always, somewhere along the line revert back to it because it’s an easier road for them. After all, they created these auto-pilot short-cuts.

He creates his own way of doing the exercise therefore dropping his shoulder or dragging his feet, takes his own good time etc. He thinks as long as he’s going through the motions he will be fine.

You, the rider need to have feel to know how to correct this and the easiest way to not let it happen in the first place is to combine the above four exercises into one fluent movement.

Always changing it up and never doing the exercise in a regimental fashion.

Keep your horse in the dark, keep him guessing and that will create a more responsive, honest horse – he has to follow your lead or he will mess up the dance steps.

 “Teaching Your Horse Calesthenics”

If you would like to learn more about callisthenics you will find a more in-depth explaination in my book – From Go To Whoa.

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From Go To Whoa - Training Your Own Horse

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Let’s Ride!

Hives in horses

Many owners see those telltale bumps and attribute them to insect bites when, in reality, they’re hives—the end result of a complicated allergic response.

A case of hives also referred to as urticaria, can be frustrating for the horse, the owner and the treating veterinarian. Hives can show up minutes to hours to days after exposure to an inciting agent, may or may not be itchy and can appear nearly anywhere on a horse’s body.

Although hives are one way allergies can manifest in the horse, hives are not always caused by allergies. What makes hives particularly challenging is that many, many things can cause hives, such as insects, inhaled pollens, ingested foods, administered medications, direct contact with a wide variety of substances, and even hot or cold temperatures, pressure and exercise.

Though they can occur during any season, equine hives, or urticaria is a common problem with horses during the summer months. Hives present as circular bumps covering large areas of the body. They are sometimes accompanied by itching. Hives are a sign of disease, not a specific disease itself.

Sometimes contact with a substance or material such as a fly spray or bedding may cause hives. There are so many possibilities that finding the cause is often difficult. It is helpful to note if any product or care changes brought the hives on. Removing potential elements one at a time and waiting a minimum of 1 – 2 weeks to see a difference is a time consuming and unrewarding method of determination. For the one-time occurrence of hives, you might never discover the incriminating source. However, if hives recur, you might be motivated to track the allergen. Start by mentally reconstructing any changes in diet, environment, medications, vaccinations, or stress factors that occurred in recent months. Provide your veterinarian with a list of suspicious items or events. Another diagnostic technique, albeit expensive and time-consuming, uses intradermal allergy testing to try and isolate an allergic source from pollens (plants, bushes, and trees), molds, grasses, weeds, dust mites, insects, and farm plants. The horse should be pulled off medications (steroids or antihistamines) at least 10-30 days prior to testing.

Managing horses with hives includes:

Your first plan of attack should be to make the horse as comfortable as possible, which might require use of medications such as steroids and antihistamines, supplements such as omega-3 fatty acids and MSM, and a skin-care regimen such as cool rinses. Next, it is necessary to determine the initial cause of the hives. In some situations, skin eruptions can be linked to a recent deworming, antibiotic administration or similar event. This acute reaction may resolve on its own and, if the product is avoided in the future, might never return. In other situations, a horse will break out with no obvious changes in his lifestyle or management and improve as long as he receives dexamethasone or prednisone, only to have bumps and welts re-appear as soon as the medication is discontinued.

Nutting out the cause

Consider: Is it now bug season? Did you use a new bedding? Has the turnout program changed? Was the horse bathed with a new shampoo? Your veterinarian might suggest avoiding or reducing exposure to insects, fly spray, a certain brand of shavings, a specific grass lot or a brand of topical product while the horse’s skin recovers. Then, you may like to re-apply the possible cause of the hives under controlled circumstances by adding one possible cause at a time. If hives immediately recur, this process of elimination worked. If not, it will be necessary to cast a wider net and keep searching for the culprit, even if it requires keeping a daily journal of observations.

In addition, the vet may need to perform diagnostic tests such as skin scrapings, cultures, impression smears and biopsies to rule out conflicting skin conditions such as infections.

Chewing on the bit

I had a someone contact me the other day with a question on chewing on the bit:

She was asking why her horse was chewing at the bit and whether she should go from the snaffle to a shank. I explained that I would lean toward the wolf teeth first before I would think about what sort of bit was being used.

Wolf teeth, not to be confused with Canine teeth – Canine teeth are usually found only in the mouths of male horses, including stallions and geldings. Also referred to as ‘tusks’, ‘tushes’ or ‘bridle teeth’, the lower canine teeth normally erupt at age four, with the upper canine teeth following at age five.

 Canine teeth appear in the mouth for the purpose of fighting — as stallions compete for mares during breeding season. However, they also play a role in chewing, whereas wolf teeth do not. Interestingly, canine teeth do appear in up to 20% of mares, but they are usually very small.

What to do if your horse has wolf teeth

It makes sense to remove these potentially troublesome teeth before you attempt any serious work with your young horse. You don’t want your horse to associate any discomfort or pain in his mouth with being worked. Horses can develop bad habits such chewing on the bit or head shaking, lunging their head and neck down toward the ground and twisting their heads through having long term pain, associating that pain with being ridden, creating anxiety in the horse which can go on for years before it is diagnosed as never having their wolf teeth extracted. These bad habits and anxiety can take a long time to retrain those bad habits out of the horses mind. Wolf teeth are on the bars of the mouth and where the bit may settle. For this reason alone, they may need to be removed.

Wolf teeth can cause a young horse to fight the bit or even the pressure of a hackamore. Any pressure on the horse’s cheeks is capable of rubbing on these teeth. Wolf teeth tend to be pointed, so they can cause some discomfort.
Wolf teeth show up right in front of the second premolars. An individual horse may have none, one, two, or four wolf teeth. Generally, a horse with wolf teeth will have just two – both located on the upper jaw. Wolf teeth may be found in the mouths of both sexes, but the key difference is they no longer serve a purpose. Wolf teeth are the vestiges of evolution, which is why they’re often called ‘vestigial’ or ‘remnant’ teeth.

The proximity of the bit to the wolf teeth often results in discomfort and pain. Wolf teeth erupt at an earlier age than canines— around six to eight months. Rarely, wolf teeth may show up as late as two to three years of age, but most yearlings obviously either have them or not. A few horses never have a problem with their wolf teeth, but many horses do. Since wolf teeth do not serve any good purpose, removing them makes good sense. They can often be blind — meaning they haven’t erupted through the gum, these “blind” teeth are actually worse than the erupted wolf teeth. They can even be floating with no root attachment. For these reasons, extraction is often recommended for wolf teeth. Wolf teeth are small, peg-like teeth, which sit just in front of the first cheek teeth. Most times in my 30 odd years of training they would hide just under the surface and annoy the horse when bitted up. I would always get my dentist in before my young horses were brought in to be broken in. I would only mouth them approximately 6 months into their training, not until they had a fair idea of how to carry a rider on their backs and most of the leg and hand cues then I would think about mouthing them.

Pesky little wolf teeth

With the wolf teeth removed it is also easier to put in a proper bit seat.

A small wolf tooth, (top of photo)

If you have an adult horse who consistently fights the bit or acts uncomfortable, it is worth having your equine dentist do a thorough exam.

Have your horses teeth examined at least once a year.

No wolf tooth does any good and may do harm, so extract them all.

Certainly, if your horse is performing well, has no problems, and a wolf tooth finding is just an incidental, you may not want to put him through the procedure to remove the teeth. Their presence should be noted though, and if problems do show up, such as head tossing, avoiding the bit, etc, wolf teeth removal should be considered.

In my experience, 9 times out of 10, having these little booger’s removed was the answer to having a safe, happy, willing horse.

Good example how a horses mouth can be overlooked, just imagine!

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You, your horse and the heat

It’s been a long time since my last blog post, I think I have been working too hard on enjoying this beautiful country that I call my backyard since travelling around Australia.

I’ve got to say, you must put this on your bucket list even if you don’t live in Australia, it is a stunning country.

Since I’m travelling in Far North Queensland for the last seven months (May – November 2018), winter and the beginning of Spring so far, I find myself thinking how tough the riders and their horses must be as far as coping with the hot weather.

I think I’m acclimatising to the warmer weather up here that the locals probably would say it’s still rather cool. It was just the other day my husband and I were crossing an “assisted” school crossing, him with no shirt on just a pair of shorts and thongs, me in a singlet, shorts and thongs. We got to the middle of the road when the first heavily clothed lollipop (stop/go sign traffic controller) lady yells to the second just as heavily clothed lollipop lady… “tourists!” I mean, it was like 25c.

Anyway, being up here in the much warmer climate than from where I’m from has got me thinking…how do the horses and riders cope?

One thing about the Internet is that it brings people together from many different areas and climates. Riders down South are shivering in front of the fire through the winter months while they procrastinate going outside to work their horse if it would only stop raining! Riders as high up as F.N.Q., Central Australia, Darwin etc. Are wiping the sweat off their brows, swiping flies and loping circles in the dust.


Heat, humidity, bugs… I love summer!


Summer brings with it heat (and in many places, humidity), mosquitoes and other flying nasties, and ground baked to the consistency of concrete.

Riders north of the borders have to contend with extreme heat and humidity so high that the sweat pours off them before they even get on board their horses. Of course, riding in the evening means sharing the space with millions of mosquitoes or worse, sand flies (midges), so it is essential to keep a good stock of fly and mosquito repellent, both for yourself and your horse.


Water is a life saver


The one thing that will keep your horse comfortable and safe in the summer is water. As horses sweat, they lose that water from their system and if they are not able to replace it they can quickly become dehydrated.

Always make sure that your horse has plenty of clean, fresh water available to drink especially when you’re at a show or clinic.

Electrolytes are important too


Another way to combat dehydration is to add electrolytes to your horse’s diet. This is best done by making a mineral block available at all times. You can also add electrolytes in his water, giving him two buckets of water (one with and one without electrolytes), making sure that he has a choice. Some electrolytes can be sprinkled on the feed.

The Pinch Test

Teach yourself how to do the “pinch test” to check your horse for dehydration. Pinch up a small area of skin on the neck and time how long it takes to return to normal.

Check your horse on a cool day when you know he is not stressed to give you a baseline to work from. Then, when you have been working him, you will be able to monitor him against that baseline, if it takes the skin noticeablly longer to return to normal, he is becoming dehydrated.

Learn your horse’s vital signs

It is a good idea to take your horse’s vital signs and note them down somewhere. When he is rested and cool, take his temparature, pulse and respiration.

Generally, horses’ temperaturewill be from 100 to 101 degrees Farenheit ( 37 – 38 Celsius). A rise over 38c -102f is abnormal and a temperature of over 40c -104f is serious and you should call your vet.

The horse’s pulse at rest will be from 36 to 42 beats per minute. That rate will increase considerably following stress, but should return to normal within 10 to 15 minutes if the horse is rested, provided he is fit.

Respiration should be around 8 to 15 breaths per minute at rest.

Armed with these vital signs you should be able to easily tell when your horse is stressed by the heat and humidity.

Travelling Or shipping your horse

I remember one year arriving at one of our long distance shows, one of the trainers arrived with their horses, unloaded them and put them in their stables. It was quite a hot day, the horses had travelled a good 10 hours.

Within an hour one had colicked and another had tied up or in layman’s terms, muscle cramping.

I believe in giving horses electrolytes before during and after travelling to ensure they are well hydrated and holding on to prescious minerals for the journey.

I would drop down their windows and offer water with added electrolytes in it. It’s a good idea to get you’re horses accustomed to drinking electrolyte fueled water well in advance of hitting the road, nothing worse than them refusing to drink because of a foreign taste in the water.

I don’t recommend letting them guzzle it down until it’s all gone either otherwise you too might have a colicky horse on your hands. Best to stop often and let them sip, have a bit of a stand still (good time to clean the poo out of the float while they have a spell).

Don’t kill em with kindness

Another thing I would definitely recommend is when you do arrive, before you put them in a yard or stable with a fat bag of lush hay and a big drink of water is to take them for a walk around for five or ten minutes, moving around NOT stopping every three strides for a bite of grass.

Once that’s done and you’re happy with how they look in their demeanour, their bright, alert, looking around and are not tucked up in the flank or have patchy sweat in weird, random places then you can put them in their stable or yard…

Wait! Don’t take that headstall off just yet. I would suggest you tie them up safely in the stable for say 15 to 20 minutes naked, you don’t want sheets etc on them just yet and tie them in a fashion that they can’t dive their heads down to eat their bedding. This whole exercise is a precautionary measure on your behalf to help ensure your horse doesn’t colic or anything drastic by:

  1. Walking them on arrival will stretch their legs while they nut out where they are and that all is well with them;
  2. Overheating with sheets and rugs on, you can really go over them with your eye and your hands making sure they arrived safe and well;
  3. Rolling, it’s not a good idea to allow your horse to roll immediately after arriving he may colic through excessive rolling;
  4. colic through gulping down too much water at once and quickly;
  5. eating their bedding as many do when they arrive.


It’s not like you order your class to be held in the cool of the early morning or the cool of the evening.

“If you can’t stand the heat…

What’s that saying…

“If you can’t stand the heat, Get out of the kitchen?”

Not this time. Stay in the kitchen and get as acclimatised as you can!

I normally would avoid riding during the heat of the day in the summer, both for my comfort and for the comfort of the horse, however, training up for a show that you both will be competing in over the hot summer months, it’s not a bad idea to gradually build up your riding time to include a bit of riding in the middle of the day.

Many’s a time I have been to a show where it’s been really hot, even hotter indoors than it is out and competitors have dropped their bundle because they have not acclimatised themselves or their horse to riding in the middle of the day, they have always trained either early morning or early evening for their comfort…big mistake come show day.

It’s not like you order your class to be held in the cool of the early morning or the cool of the evening. Granted, some classes will be held at those times but you can back it in, you will more than likely be waiting around for a trail class in the middle of the day while the sun is beating down relentlessly. So be smart and acclimatise both you and your horse to cope with the heat of the day.


Hard ground makes for hard ride

Another summer hazard is ground baked so hard that it resembles concrete. Hard ground is hard on horse’s legs. Concussion injuries are more prevalent in summer, as horses are trained sometimes on sun baked hard ground.

All weather surfaces, such as sand, bark chips or other proprietary arena surfaces can alleviate this problem.

If you don’t have or can’t afford an all weather surface for your arena, you can compromise by using wood shavings from your horse’s stable (remove the droppings first) and lay a track around the rail of your arena to create a riding track that will be comfortable to work on.

This solution may also help out in winter when you are dealing with ankle deep mud.

Remember to do this…

  • keep your horse and yourself hydrated with water not sugary drinks for you the rider, they will dehydrate you quicker than you can say “I’m going home it’s too hot”.
  •  Be wise with your riding times, it’s oftentimes better to make the decision to ride more often in the one day and for short periods of time rather than a hard hot hour;
  • loosen that girth if you’re riding again. If you have plenty of time before your next ride or your class, hose your horse down, now you don’t need to throughly wet him down all over if your class is coming up and you want to keep him clean and respectable looking. Hose between his front and back legs and down his legs, this is where, the same as on yourself – have you ever noticed you can cool yourself down by running cool water over your wrists? You can do the same with horse just don’t whizz through it, leave the hose run down his legs and over his chest and any sweaty areas. As long as you do the vital pulse areas you will help in his cool down.
  • Prepare for the elements and chill 😎

“Let’s Ride”

How to Teach The Side Pass from the ground

Led Trail – Sidepass

Training a horse to side pass is beneficial for multiple reasons, whether it be improving groundwork, being able to open a gate while seated, or preparing for yearling/two year old led trail class. Fortunately the process of teaching a horse to side pass includes training a turn on the haunch and on the forehand, two other useful groundwork and riding techniques. Follow these steps, and you’ll improve not only your riding but your horse’s response and performance.

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Test your horse’s ability to move away from pressure. The natural instinct of your horse should be to move away from where pressure is applied – the same instinct humans have. Test this reaction in your horse by bumping them with an open palm near the girth where you would bump them with your calf. They should move away from your hand, possibly already in a side pass.

  • Continue bumping your horse near the girth with added pressure if they do not respond to you. As soon as they take a step away, release pressure and reward them.
  • Practice this until your horse needs only a single bump, or no bump at all (just pushing energy with your hand towards their girth), in order to move away from you.

Train a turn on the haunch. Put your horse on a lead rope, and if necessary grab a crop. Stand so that your body is positioned slightly behind the barrel of your horse’s body, and gesture with your arm or crop towards their shoulder. If they do not respond to this, then apply pressure on their shoulder. The goal is to get them to move away from your pressure by rotating their body around their back legs.

  • If your horse turns away or simply walks in the opposite direction rather than crossing their front legs in a turn, grab the lead rope and hold them straight ahead.
  • As soon as your horse crosses their front legs in a turn on the haunch, release pressure and reward them for doing what you asked.
  • Continue practicing a turn on the haunch on the ground, your horse will respond to the same cues when riding.

Train a turn on the forehand. Similar to a turn on the haunch, a turn on the forehand is done when your horse rotates their entire body around their front legs by crossing their back legs. Accomplish this by standing near the shoulder (to block shoulder/forward movement) and gesturing towards the haunch with your crop or open hands. If they don’t respond without pressure, add a bit by pushing against the haunch with your open hands, or tapping them with the crop.

  • Don’t remove pressure if your horse simply backs away or turns to the side. Straighten them out if necessary, but continue bumping with pressure until they take at least one step by crossing their legs.
  • As soon as your horse achieves a single step in a turn on the forehand, release pressure and reward them for following your cues.
  • Practice this over and over until your horse requires a minimal amount of pressure to accomplish a turn on the forehand.

Combine your groundwork to accomplish a grounded side pass.Stand next to your horse near the barrel of their body, using a crop if necessary. Bump the girth of the horse to tell them to move away; if they don’t move how you want, give them the cues for a turn on the haunch and a turn on the forehand. Continue working back and forth between your cues until your horse clues in and does at least a single successful step in a side pass.

  • Reward your horse and release pressure as soon as they take even a single step in the form of a side pass.
  • Continue doing this until they don’t need to be cued for a turn on the forehand and a turn on the haunch in order to recreate a side pass. Eventually they should only need to be bumped on their side near the girth.

Draw Reins – Part One

I like to get the draw reins on and use them to help your horse to gain collection. That’s one of their uses, I also put them on if I’m going to teach the transition into a lope. When used properly, they are a good training aid. Used improperly, they can cause problems.

It’s not wise to over-use draw reins or to use them just to get a horses head down. People sometimes use draw reins for that very reason and they forget about the rest of the horses body and collection. All this does is put the horse on the forehand. You really need to think self-carriage. When a horse has “self-carriage,” the horse literally carries his weight (including the rider’s weight) balanced over his haunches. Because he’s balanced on the hindquarters, he has a light forehand and a soft poll. He carries his weight without leaning on the rider.

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If you only use them to get the horse’s head down, you’ll lose the horse’s natural movement. You see horses in draw reins where their heads are to their chests, and they are just shuffling around, flopping on their front ends without any carriage or lift to their bodies. It’s very hard to correct that.

As with anything, when you use draw reins, there should be a give-and-take in the rider’s hands. You pick up, feel him come to the collected frame and then release immediately.

Continue reading Draw Reins – Part One

Yearling Lunge line don’t let it take it’s toll on a young horses mind…

This event can have a bit of controversy to it as in most events. But with the lunge-line class, some people I’ve spoken with about it say it actually ruins prospects so I thought it an important topic to cover.If done properly, it can accomplish many things that people want in a good riding horse later on down the track. It can also be a good evaluation tool to help you observe your horse’s potential (or lack of) in the show pen by being able to see if he has a natural way of moving with a level top line, showing himself to be responsive to the handlers subtle cues. There is nothing better than watching a young lunge liner perform in his class with next to no visible cues from the handler.

Yes, some people claim that competing in lunge line will create problems in a yearling’s future training. This can come about by a handlers lack of knowledge, letting the youngster travel around dropping his shoulder or allowing him to travel on the forehand or overworking them which can put wear and tear on a young horse’s legs. Knowledge is power that’s for sure!

Slow and Steady


When starting a young lunge line prospect, training is done slowly and calmly.

It is important to note that a young horse doesn’t stop growing until around the age of 5 1/2 In general, the process of growth plates becoming bone happens from the bottom of the animal up. Most bones have fused by the time a horse reaches age 4, but the pelvis keeps growing until a horse is about 5 and some plates of the vertebral column do not fuse until a horse is 5 ½ or older. You don’t have to wait until all of your horse’s growth plates have fused to start working them but you should be careful that the process is slow and steady so you don’t risk injuring the horses joints.

Over training a young horse will set you up for failure. An over trained youngster can start to resent his training very quickly and will develop life-long bad habits such as ear pinning, dropping shoulders, being on the forehand, if not corrected and left to continue.

Once something is taught, whether it be good or bad, it is a long, hard process to re-train it out of their brain. Judges know immediately if the horse has their ears pinned back and they are dropping shoulders or travelling on the forehand that the youngster has been over trained.

When starting a young lunge line prospect, training is done slowly and calmly. If starting a youngster before his yearling year begins you should keep your training to short training periods of basic repetitive manoeuvre’s.

Do not rush your training. I like to start them at the walk initially, giving them the time to get used to the routine and become accustomed to his training area. This then builds very gradually adding the jog, then a lope over time to teach the yearling about balance and proper carriage on the lunge line.

 

Not everyone can afford a full-time trainer or they are situated in remote area’s that doesn’t warrant travelling endless hours to visit a trainer or to travel to clinics. That is why I have developed my program Remote Horse & Rider Training. It’s very affordable and allows handlers/riders to be at home on their property putting to practice what they have learned from me. I’m with you all they way giving you the knowledge that you need to get the best out of both yourself and your horse.

This program is tried and tested to work very well…

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Once a client has joined up with me they are privvy to lot’s of knowledgeable information, tips and even the odd trick.